Tory Comes Out On Top In Court

Tory Burch has been awarded $41.2 million after winning a trademark infringement lawsuit against Lin & J International Inc., who the designer successfully proved had copied her trademarks and designs.

Tory Burch

Picture credit: Rex Features

The judgement, which was made by the US District Court on Friday, draws a line under a battle between the two brands that started in 2013 when Burch "sent a representative to Lin & J's showroom in New York and that representative was shown a variety of knockoffs and told the minimum order was $350," WWD reports court documents as stating. She also "identified a wholesaler in Alabama who pointed to Lin & J as their supplier of thousands of units of fake jewellery."

A look from the Tory Burch autumn/winter 2015 show

Picture credit: Indigital

Following initial legal proceedings, Lin & J then unsuccessfully countersued Tory Burch, accusing the New York-based company of "unfair trade practices, defamation, trademark infringement and other claims."  The breakdown of the awarded amount equates to $38.9 million in damages and $2.3 million in legal fees.

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Gucci Celebrates The Alessandro Effect

GUCCI has posted positive results for the first half of 2015, following a warm reaction by consumers to changes at the label. Revenue was up almost 12 per cent, Gucci owner Kering reported, with sales in European Gucci stores up more than 13 per cent and 19 per cent in directly-operated stores in Japan.

"Kering delivered a sound performance in the first half of 2015, buoyed by strong sales growth in the second quarter in a volatile economic and currency environment," François-Henri Pinault, Kering chairman and CEO, said at yesterday's results announcement. "We are particularly satisfied with the progress at Gucci and the positive reception given to the brand's new creative direction. As we enter the second half of the year, I am fully confident in the group's ability to combine strict management discipline with organic growth at each of our brands." 

Alessandro Michele

Picture credit: Indigital

Pleased though Kering doubtless is about Gucci's "change in management and creative responsibility" - which the conglomerate listed as a highlight for 2015 - how much of an impact the new guard has had on sales is still intangible. Following the departure of creative director Frida Giannini and CEO Patrizio di Marco in January this year, former Gucci accessories designer turned creative director Alessandro Michele, and Marco Bizzarri, Gucci's new president and CEO, took their positions and immediately made their presence felt.

Michele's first collection - a menswear offering showcased just days before he was appointed at the helm - was quickly followed by a womenswear collection just a month after he was appointed, but the first collection fully created under his direction, for pre-spring/summer 2016, won't arrive in stores until late 2015.

Much like the "suede-skirt effect" enjoyed by Marks & Spencer earlier this year - when clothing sales at the retailer rose thanks to a hero piece worn by Alexa Chung, which in fact wasn't in stores yet - Michele's new vision could be attracting young consumers back into stores despite the stock still being in transistion. A similar lift was experienced by Dior following John Galliano's departure in 2011, so it could also be the confirmation of the old adage that "all press is good press", meaning that the increase in buzz surrounding the brand just puts it on shoppers' radars again. But that would be to underestimate the appeal of the new offering.

Michele's arrival has brought a freshness to Gucci again - eschewing as he has the old Italian glamour of the label for a new, retro youthfulness - and if the latest figures are anything to go by, Gucci could follow Saint Laurent, which yesterday, yet again, posted eye-watering figures. The company - which, like Gucci, has turned away from its old-school sexy image towards a more undone and youthful aesthetic - enjoyed first-half revenue growth of 38 per cent, with sales in directly operated stores also up more than 25 per cent.

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Brilliant Frizz-Fighting Tips That'll Give Your Hair Life

by Gray Chapman

Summer beauty campaigns would have us believe that frolicking on a beach or strutting down a city sidewalk in a sundress is all just so effortless. But any woman who’s spent more than a few minutes styling her hair, only to step outside into sweltering, greenhouse-like heat, knows that summer’s elements are like style Kryptonite. Whether it’s heat, humidity or salt water, this season brings with it an array of challenges that can leave even the most carefully coiffed in a limp, frizzy mess. (Isn’t it amazing how heat and humidity can somehow make hair stringy and enormous at the same time? Gotta love summer.)

So, rather than accepting our summer hair fate, we decided to bring out the big guns. We chatted with two super-knowledgeable hair experts—Amoy Pitters ofAmoy Couture Hair, and Misti Dort, stylist at Atlanta’s Salon Red—for tips on how to wear a tousled “effortless” wave in this merciless heat while also battling frizz, dryness and other trappings of summer. Read on for styling tips that address your specific hair type’s needs to thwart summer’s more vexing effects. 

If you have straight hair...

If you have straight hair and you want to prevent the flattened, wet rat look, try preemptively injecting some volume with loose waves, advises Dort. She recommends working in product into your hair while it’s still wet, using products that add texture and have a little hold, like a mousse or surf spray. Then, let your hair air-dry. “Once it dries, go in with a curling iron—either a cone-shaped wand or just the barrel of a regular curling iron—to give yourself a couple more defined pieces,” she says. Lightly spritz with a medium-hold hairspray (“anything heavier will deflate hair through the day”), and prepare to brave the elements in style. 

If you have wavy or curly hair...

You’d think women with naturally wavy hair could just run some gel through their locks and call it a day. When dealing with heat and humidity, though, that’s far from the case. Dort tells us that for women with mermaid hair, summer weather can cause a sort of triangle effect, with frizz targeting hair from its mid-shaft to ends. “In that situation, you’ll want to use two different products to address the roots in a different way than you would the rest,” Dort says. She recommends spritzing roots with a little salt spray. Then as you work your way down to your ends, “use a hairspray that adds texture but has emollients, so that it conditions the hair,” she says. You’ll get that perfectly lived-in look without the dry, dull strands. 

If you have natural hair...

Pitters has styled the locks of Iman, Naomi Campbell, and countless couture runway models— needless to say, this woman knows a thing or two about hair. So, when she gives us advice, we tend to listen. “Exposing styled hair to a hot, humid environment causes the hair’s physical side bonds [read: the chemical bonds that hair is made out of] to break, allowing the hair strands to return to its natural state,” she says. “Naturally curly hair that has been ironed will begin to frizz and slide back into its curly state.” The best way to deal? Keep hair hydrated, avoid extended exposure to the sun, and stay away from using excessive styling products. Some products, however, do help seal the hair shaft to make the hair more resistant to weather’s effects, so look for a humidity-blocking styling cream or oil to prevent frizz.

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Emma Watson Takes the Green Carpet Challenge, and More of Today’s News

Turning the red carpet on its head . . .

Emma Watson is making a serious statement for her promotional tour for her upcoming film, Regression. We’re not referring to the actress’s impeccable sense of dress, but rather the social activism that is shaping her choices this circuit: For each red carpet turn she makes, Watson will wear a unique look from various fashion designers who create with sustainability in mind. She made the announcement via Instagram, voicing her support for brands “that are considering local craft and production, artisan skills, the environment, sustainability, and the longevity of fashion.” [British Vogue]

The rise of agender fashion . . .

Agender fashion is the latest subject to be addressed in the conversation on fashion and sexuality. In a recent panel hosted by Refinery29 and moderated by writer Katherine Bernard, industry voices Jenny Shimizu, Grace Dunham, Kristiina Wilson, Anita Dolce Vita, and Alok Vaid-Menon discussed trans representation in fashion and the ongoing reconciliation of social activism and capitalism. [New York]

Silk scarves are a worthy investment, after all . . .

Despite China’s slowing economy, French heritage brand Hermès has reported a 20 percent rise in operating income for the first half of 2015. The luxury house described the growth as “remarkable,” despite the “difficult context” in the nearby markets of Hong Kong and Macau. [The Guardian]

All-black everything . . .

In a study conducted by a U.K. retailer, it was confirmed that wearing black has a direct correlation with appearing more attractive, intelligent, and confident. The study polled more than 1,000 people to see which colors were most commonly associated with certain qualities. Coming in second on a scale of confidence was red (which we knew already from Legally Blonde), and somewhat predictably so, pink was least associated with intelligence. We think Elle Woods would beg to differ. [Complex]

Twin Peaks IRL . . .

A pop-up diner in the U.K. has been created to immerse you in the fictitious town of Double Pineview, for a Twin Peaks–inspired—but completely unaffiliated—“interactive dining experience.” Hard-core fans of the show better book a flight over the pond stat: The curious destination is open until October 17. [Dazed]

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Donna Karan Steps Down at DKI

Donna has left the building

News broke late this afternoon that Donna Karan is stepping down as the chief designer of the brand she founded after 31 years at its helm. According to LVMH, which bought Donna Karan International in 2001, she’ll remain a close adviser. For the time being, it will not begin a search for a successor, and, in turn, the label’s fashion shows will be put on temporary hiatus. Karan, for her part, plans to devote more time to her Urban Zen company and foundation. 

Karan got her start at Anne Klein, where she rose from assistant designer to head of design. She launched her own label in 1984 with her husband, Stephan Weiss, and Takihyo, and quickly garnered acclaim for her “Seven Easy Pieces” collection of mix-and-match jersey separates. It was a practical, layerable, and, most of all, feminine system of dressing, and it made an especially big impact because it came at a time when women, new to the corporate workforce, were wearing masculine, boxy power suits with exaggerated padded shoulders. Think Melanie Griffith in Working Girl. 

Karan was a rare woman running her own label in that era, but she had no shortage of success. She launched DKNY, a lower-priced collection, in 1988, and the company’s four-letter logo would dominate the corner of Broadway and Houston for well over a decade. From the start, she understood the power of marketing. In the ’90s, her famous friends Demi Moore and Bruce Willis posed together for her campaign. They were striking images, but perhaps her most arresting advertisements were the ones that starred model Rosemary McGrotha circa 1992, right hand in the air, being sworn in, presumably as the president of the United States. 

Karan’s oeuvre ranged well beyond those early jersey separates, as the photos of McGrotha in her smartly tailored suit suggests. For my part, I’ll never forget the long, dévoré velvet dresses of 1996, suspended from the skinniest of straps and exposing no small amount of skin. Her flair for travel and her yoga practice have informed countless other collections.

In my early days at Women’s Wear Daily, Karan’s name was often linked to her biggest competitors: Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren. It was always “Donna, Calvin, and Ralph.” They were at the absolute pinnacle of American fashion. In the nearly 20 years since, if Karan’s dominance on the runway has waned, her outspokenness certainly hasn’t. She has often talked about the senselessness of delivering winter clothes in July and summer ones in January. And, of course, she has been very vocal about her causes through Urban Zen. 

Karan celebrated her 30th anniversary last year with a special show downtown, not far from the Stock Exchange, where she took her company public in 1996. Fashion was in the midst of a Donna Karan moment at the time, with younger designers reinterpreting her signature jersey draping and burnout velvet gowns. She may no longer be running one of America’s most important brands, but her influence will continue.

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Celebrity Proof That a White Tee and Jeans Is Still the Best Off-Duty Outfit Ever

The white tee-and-jeans pairing is a sartorial tale that's as old as time. It's a classic for a reason: the combo comprises two of the most timeless staples ever. Even though its timeline can be traced as far back as the '70s—think Jane Birkin's effortlessly chic ensembles, it has faced derision in recent times for being "basic."

And yes, an outfit featuring a plain white tee and jeans is basic in that it's rooted in great predictability, but there's something insanely comforting about its familarity. Perhaps that's why the combo never really left. Jennifer Aniston made it her trademark uniform, becoming something of a poster child of the look for years (and as recent as last summer).

Maybe the pairing is so basic that it's now become fundamentally non-basic. In any case, we have the celebrity snaps to back that up. From January Jones's chic take (above) to Kristen Stewart's tough 'tude, see all the stars in white tees and jeans, proving that it's essentially the ultimate off-duty outfit.

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Disney, Marvel 'want no part' of NYPD's battle against Times Square costumed characters, Bill Bratton says

Disney and Marvel apparently aren't interested in helping the NYPD restrict the hordes of costumed characters preying on tourists in Times Square

BY THOMAS TRACY , CHELSIA ROSE MARCIUS , CORKY SIEMASZKO

The city’s top cop said Thursday they got the cold shoulder from Disney and Marvel when they tried to enlist them in the fight against the costumed characters preying on tourists in Times Square.

 NYPD officers keep an eye on tourists as they stand guard at Times Square

“They want no part of it,” Police Commissioner Bill Bratton said on the John Gambling radio show. “We've encouraged Walt Disney, ‘Put your characters out on Broadway free of charge so people don't have to worry about their kids being groped,’” he said. “We said to them, effectively, ‘Since you control the rights of them, put them out in front of the Disney Theater.' They want no part of it.”

Disney spokeswoman Zenia Mucha declined to address Bratton’s complaints directly but said she shares his frustration.

“We have been working for years in trying to get legislation that would require registration and the identification of these costumed characters,” she said. “We consider this to be a public safety issue.”

There was no immediate response from Marvel.

Bratton’s remarks came a day after police announced they were seeking volunteers to serve in a special unit that will “address crime and quality-of-life” issues in Times Square.

The NYPD move followed a series of Daily News stories that exposed the aggressive costumed characters and their jiggly competition — the painted topless ladies in Times Square.

 Bill Bratton 

Bratton called the new Times Square unit “part of a much larger refocusing of the department.”

“We're going to be assigning veteran officers who will all be given special training on the issues in the area,” he said.

Bratton said the unit was in the works for some time but was fast-tracked after the media began focusing on the desnudas and how their kind of panhandling can be “easily spread to other parts of the city.”

That said, Bratton added, “there’s only about one crime reported every day” in Times Square.

“The Times Square issue is one of disorder,” he said.

Bratton also took a shot at Times Square artists like Andy Golub, whose specialty is using naked people as his canvas.

“What he is effectively doing is flaunting the first amendment,” he said. “Well, it may be an artistic expression, but it repulses the average person, and this is what we’re dealing with.”

Golub defended his work and said what he’s doing is “art for art’s sake.”

“We're not collecting money, we're not soliciting,” he said. “This is fine art, it has nothing to do with money, it has nothing to do with making a profit. It's to expand peoples’ ideas of what art can be.”

The NYPD's efforts come after a series of Daily News stories that exposed the aggressive costumed characters and their jiggly competition — the painted topless ladies in Times Square

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